Winter in Kashmir

Ganesh Vanare
6 days ago
3 min read

Experiencing Chillai-Kalan: My First Harsh Winter in Kashmir.

Kashmir has always been a land of stories, seasons, and silence.

But experiencing it during Chillai-Kalan, the harshest winter period in Kashmir, was something no photograph or film could ever prepare me for.

In January 2021, around 20th January, I visited Kashmir for the first time — right in the middle of Chillai-Kalan, when the valley experiences its coldest days of the year.

Coming from Mumbai, a coastal city with mild winters, this journey felt like stepping into an entirely different climate, rhythm, and way of life.

What is Chillai-Kalan?

Chillai-Kalan is a 40-day period of extreme winter in Kashmir.

It begins every year on December 21 and ends on January 31.

This phase is known as the coldest part of the Kashmiri winter, marked by:

Severe cold waves
Sub-zero temperatures
Heavy and widespread snowfall

The local meteorological department usually forecasts wet spells and snowfall around December 20–21, which coincides with the onset of Chillai-Kalan. While daily life slows down, this period also leads to a tourism boom, as Kashmir transforms into a white winter paradise.

Witnessing a Frozen Dal Lake

One of the most unforgettable sights of my life was seeing Dal Lake completely frozen.

Not partially frozen — but solid enough for people to walk on it.

We walked on the frozen lake.

We even played cricket on Dal Lake.

It felt unreal. A scene straight out of a dream.

The silence was overwhelming. The cold was intense. Time felt frozen along with the lake.

Surviving the Extreme Cold

The cold during Chillai-Kalan is not just uncomfortable — it’s physically demanding.

My bones ached.

My fingers went numb within minutes.

Breathing felt heavier.

Coming from Mumbai, my body was not used to such extreme temperatures. Surviving the weather itself became a daily challenge — but it also made me deeply respect the resilience of local life in Kashmir.

Gulmarg in Peak Winter

Gulmarg during Chillai-Kalan felt untouched and surreal.

Snow-covered landscapes in every direction.

Quiet roads.

Soft winter light.

It didn’t feel like a tourist destination. It felt calm, raw, and deeply peaceful — like nature resting under a blanket of snow.

Photographing Kashmir During Chillai-Kalan

This was also my first time documenting extreme winter conditions.

At that time, I was shooting on a Sony APS-C camera (Sony A6400). No luxury gear, no comfort — just simple equipment and a lot of patience.

I documented:

Srinagar streets
Dal Lake interiors
Gulmarg landscapes
Everyday life during harsh winter

Cold weather drains camera batteries faster, fingers freeze quickly, and moments disappear fast. Winter photography teaches you to slow down and stay present.

The winter light was different — softer shadows, muted colors, and a quiet honesty that stayed with me.

Cultural Significance of Chillai-Kalan

Chillai-Kalan is not just a weather phenomenon — it holds deep cultural meaning.

According to Persian tradition, the night of December 21 is celebrated as Shab-e-Yalda or Shab-e-Chelleh, meaning “Night of Birth” or “Night of Forty”. It symbolises the victory of light over darkness and marks the beginning of the harsh winter phase.

What Comes After Chillai-Kalan?

After Chillai-Kalan, winter slowly begins to ease:

Chillai-Khurd (Small Cold)
January 31 to February 19 — a 20-day period of moderate winter.
Chillai-Bacha (Baby Cold)
February 20 to March 2 — the final phase before winter fades.